84 Commercial Street London E1 6LY Tel: 020 7366 1721
If you had stepped into the Ten Bells for a pint over the last six months you could be forgiven for missing the scribble of neon lights in the far corner of the room. It’s the only indication of the temporary residents, who have turned the want for affordable yet inventive food into a coveted reality. I was lucky enough to sample the trio’s resourceful food at a perfect London summer's night at Frank's last year, despite the drizzle they injected the essence of July in their food; meats straight off the grills and foraged seasonal veg. Since October they swapped the view of the city’s skyline with the lights of Shoreditch's glittering strip, but kept the set up relaxed choosing the East end boozer's weathered oak dining tables and shabby embossed brocade wallpaper to house their next venture.
|Pigeon sausage and Chutney|
|Butterhead Lettuce, Goat's Curd and Toasted Almonds|
|Chicken and Pine Salt|
|Pheasant Egg, Venison Broth and Peas|
|Lamb's Heart, Grilled Onion and Anchovy|
|Dexter Rib, Beetroot and Twekesbury Mustard|
I have spoken a lot previously of honesty in restaurants. A sense of genuine good food intention spread across the edible offer and service, pardon my gushing but I would say that the Young Turks exemplify this approach. There is a certain admirable understatement about what they do, with a chameleonic approach to their surroundings they pare down everything else allowing their food to speak for them. As we and the rest of the room toasted our last delectable mouthful, we were already yearning for the next instalment, which by the sounds of the whisperings will be soon and permanent.